Each Original Tier holds 1 cubic foot of potting mix (about 8 gallons). Each Leaf Tier holds 0.8 cubic feet of potting mix (about 6 gallons).
We stand behind our products with a warranty that ensures our planters won’t crack or fade for at least 5 years. If you encounter any issues, simply send a photo of the damaged pieces to email@example.com and we will happily replace the affected piece(s) at no cost to you
Yes! We have been issued both a design and utility patent. There's nothing else like GreenStalk Vertical Planters on the market.
Our planters can be used indoors. We recommend adding grow lights based on your growing environment. Adding a GreenStalk Mover or Ultimate Spinner would be a necessity for ensuring water doesn't drain out onto the floor. Please note that water cannot be held for an extended amount of time in either GreenStalk Base and should be drained into another container.
Worm composting bins should never be dry and should never have standing water in them. Ideally, the worm bedding should be at about 80% moisture. The bedding should definitely feel moist but when you squeeze it, no water should drip out. Also, when you squeeze it you should not hear crackling of dry paper or dry leaves. When your worm bin bedding is at the correct moisture level, it should remind you of laundry right when you take it from the washing machine. The clothes are thoroughly saturated with water but not dripping at all.
Almost any carbon source can be used as worm bin bedding, but some worm bedding material works better than others. Remember, your worm composting bin bedding material needs to be at about 80% moisture level.
All worms breathe through their skin. A worm’s skin must be moist to be able to breathe. If a worm’s skin dries out, it will die.
They can tolerate a fairly wide range of temperatures. Worms are most efficient (eating, pooping, making babies) at temperatures that we humans prefer, roughly 60 to 80 degrees F.
Sure, a worm composting bin can be kept outside. Just be sure to have a plan for controlling temperature so your worms don’t freeze or overheat. Worms like the same temperatures as we do. They are happiest between 60 and 80 degrees F, If it gets too cold or too hot your worms will die.
In your worm bin, you may find, rolly pollys (sow bugs), ants, centipedes, millipedes, earwigs, pot worms (very small white worms), slugs, and more. These other bugs won’t hurt your worms and are usually a sign of a healthy worm bin. If your outdoor worm bin is not maintained properly, it can attract pests that you don’t want like ants and flies. Correcting the maintenance issue and/or moving the worm bin inside usually corrects the issue.
We recommend starting a home worm bin with 1 pound of composting worms. The worms will multiply (remember one of their 3 jobs is to make babies). So, the amount of worms you start with really depends on how productive you want your homemade worm bin to be right away and how much you are willing to spend.
Most of worm bins are ‘flow through’ worm bins where the worms are fed on top and the castings (worm poop) are harvested from the bottom. We use light and window screen to separate worms from the compost. Worms naturally move away from light, so spread your worm compost in a thin layer on a window screen placed on top of your open worm bin and shine a bright light on your worms. They will move away from the light, down through the screen, and back into your bin.
It will take around 2-3 months before you are able to harvest vermicompost for the first time. After that, you will be able to harvest a small amount every month or so depending on the size of your worm compost bin and your worm herd. Want vermicompost faster? Start with more composting worms!
Worms are voracious eaters. Depending on the conditions in the worm bin, they can eat between 1/4 and 1/2 of their weight everyday. So, if you have one pound of worms (roughly 1000 worms), you can expect them to eat 1/4 lb. to 1/2 pound each day under ideal conditions.
It takes a baby worm only 9 weeks to reach maturity and start reproducing. Worms reproduce by creating small tan colored cocoons. Each cocoon holds 2 or 3 tiny baby worms. So, given ideal conditions, enough food, and enough space in the worm bin, you can expect your worm herd to double every 3 or 4 months.
The reproductive act begins with two mature worms giving each other a hug. They line up their clitellum and then hold on to each other's bodies with tiny hairs called setae. During this hug, the worms swap reproductive seminal fluids. Next, the worms secrete mucus rings around both their bodies. The visual effect is that it makes the worms look like they are tied up with very fine fishing string. These mucus rings are the beginnings of the shell of the worm cocoon.
When the worms begin to separate, the mucus rings slide off each worm, collecting fertilized reproductive seminal fluids as the rings move along the worms' bodies. When the mucus rings get to the end of the worms, the ends of the mucus rings seal themselves, creating the cocoon that contains all the necessary reproductive material. The cocoon then separates from the worms to develop.
A single worm can not reproduce by itself. Even though worms have male and female reproductive organs, they need another partner in order to reproduce.
Worms are hermaphrodites, which means all worms have both male and female reproductive organs.
Composting worms do not have teeth. Worms cannot take a bite out of food, they need to wait until the food begins to rot or breakdown so that it is soft and wet enough for them to suck off with their very small mouths. Instead of chewing their food with teeth, they grind their food in very small gizzards.
Studies have shown that composting worms can live 4 to 10 years when kept in a worm bin or laboratory. Out in nature, worms typically live only 1 or 2 years because of predators, temperature changes, and other potential dangers.
Aloe vera contains over 75 beneficial compounds including amino acids, antioxidants, complex carbohydrates, calcium, magnesium, zinc, vitamins A, C, E, B-vitamins, and more. When blended into a homemade fertilizer, your plants receive a gentle but potent boost of nutrition. Aloe vera fertilizer can encourage seed germination and rapid root development, improved cell strength, and contribute to overall superior plant health, growth, and vigor. In fact, aloe is so great at promoting growth that it’s commonly used as a natural rooting hormone, used to help plant cuttings establish new roots.
Mix roughly 1/8 – 1/2 teaspoon of Aloe Vera powder per gallon of water.
Mix 1-4 tablespoons of Aloe Vera powder per 50 gallons of water.
Apply to the top and bottom of your leaves and/or soil drench. Can be used in combination with other teas.
Notice: Aloe Vera Powder may need to sit in water for 10 Minutes to properly dissolve and activate the properties to maximum benefit.
Aloe vera also contains enzymes and plant hormones that help to reduce transplant shock, and boost the plant’s resilience to drought, stress, and disease. The high levels of acemannan and saponin found in aloe vera both provide antibacterial, antifungal, and antiviral properties. This helps to protect plants from pathogens including harmful microbes, fungus, yeast, mold, or blight.
The high levels of salicylic acid naturally found in aloe vera plays a big role in its healing powers. You’ve probably heard of salicylic acid before; it’s commonly found in skincare products to fight blemishes. In a similar manner, salicylic acid enhances the plant’s version of an immune system (known as the systemic immune response or SAR) that will help them fend off disease.
Worm castings are the direct waste from the worms, while the vermicast we sell is a large bulk mixture of these worm castings and peat bedding.
Mushroom compost can help amend garden soil, but should be used with caution. Mushroom compost is rich in soluble salts and other nutrients and can kill germinating seeds and harm salt-sensitive plants including rhododendrons and azaleas. Mushroom compost can supply nutrients and increase the water-holding capacity of the soil but can be too much of a good thing for seeds, seedlings and young plants.
Salicylic acid has the ability to bind conjugate with some amino acids such as proline and arginine, which increase the plant’s effectiveness in resisting environmental stresses and at the same time maintain systemic acquired resistance (SAR). The most important effects of salicylic acid are to stimulate the production of antioxidants.
Salicylic acid increases the plant’s response to tolerance and resistance to various diseases affecting plants as it is found that increasing its internal concentration activates the protective role of pathogenic pathogens. The SA also has many important physiological roles, such as stimulating the flowering, ion absorption, nutrient transfer, increasing the representation of CO2 gas, controlling the movement of stomata, photo materials, gas exchange, and protein synthesis.
Salicylic acid is one of the plant hormones produced by the plant naturally, as it is mainly manufactured within the plant cytoplasmic cells. Salicylic acid plays an important role in the growth and development of the plant for major physiological roles such as increasing the plant’s response to stress conditions by increasing the resistance of the plant to System Acquired Resistance (SAR) by stimulating or changing the internal paper dissection endogenous signaling to withstand a large number of stresses. Salicylic acid acts as a stimulant or transmitter of the cell to withstand environmental stress conditions such as dryness, coldness, heat, stress of heavy elements.
Take soil samples. You will need ½ to 1 pint of soil per sample. Now, don’t take one sample from one spot in your garden and send it in. Rather, take multiple samples over the area go get a representative sample of the entire area.
Send the sample to a trusted and established laboratory for their recommendations. There are always forms to be filled in, so contact the lab of your choice first to get the proper forms.
Fill in the forms very specifically, indicating what crops you intend to grow, any known problems from previous years, any concerns that you have.
When the report comes back, it maybe difficult for you to read and interpret, so never hesitate to re-contact the lab with your questions. They will be glad to help.
Apply exactly what is recommended. You should do it as early in the spring as possible because the added nutrients will not be readily available to the plants until they undergo certain chemical reactions in the soil.
1. Top dress plants with 1/8 - 1/4 Cup per plant.
2. Build your soil using this milled meal at 1/2 - 1 Cup Per Cubic Foot.
3. Bubble a tea for 4 hours in water then use immediately using 1/8th cup per gallon water.
When used in your garden malted barley Grain functions as a source of growth hormone catalysts, providing enzymes and plant hormone producing microbes to feed the soil and supercharge your garden.
Malted barley is made when raw barley is naturally processed (malted) using only water, heat and time. Because the raw barley is minimally processed, it is considered “natural”. There are three steps of the malting process:
1) Steeping— Raw barley is alternately submerged and drained for 40-48 hours in steep tanks until a moisture level of 40% or greater is achieved. This activates the embryo to initiate enzyme development and growth of the rootlets. This is the beginning of germination.
2) Germination— Steeped grain is then moved to a germination compartment where germination continues for four to seven days at controlled temperature, humidity and oxygen levels. During germination the barley is modified. Modification refers to the breakdown of complex proteins and carbohydrates which opens up the starch reserves. Enzymes in germinating barley include high levels of alpha amylase, and lower levels of beta amylase and proteases.
3) Drying (kilning)—Drying on a kiln or roaster halts germination. Gentle kiln drying preserves enzymes and develops malty flavors. Higher temperature drying in a kiln and/or roaster results in more unique flavor development and decreases or completely denatures enzymes.
Vegetable Gardens & Flower Beds: For optimum results follow these guidelines:
Use between 5-50 lbs./ 100 sq. ft. in tillage, 5-25 lbs./ 100 sq. ft. top dressing. Fortifying compost use 20-25 lbs./ cu. yd. of biomass raw material. For potting mixes use up to 5% by volume.
Trees & Shrubs: For mature bushes and trees use about 5 lbs. per year around each bush, more for mature trees.
Not quite, igneous rocks like basalt and granite have the highest mineral content, with basalt providing a greater balance of nutrients for optimal plant health and vitality. Created through the cooling and solidification of magma and lava, basalt is the rock material that makes up most of the soils around the world. It continues to deliver a steady flow of nutrients over time, even as it decomposes. Basalt’s slow-release benefits make it an effective way to minimize deficiencies, particularly with fast-growing crops that experience periods of rapid nutrient uptake and fruit trees.
Overall improvement in plant vigor should follow the assimilation of minerals in the rock dust. Annual soil testing should show improvements in both available nutrients and overall nutrient density in soils. Brix refractometer readings should improve, indicating higher sugar and mineral content in plant sap. Higher sugar and mineral content will improve disease and insect resistance as well as drought and frost resistance.
Remineralizing soils is the first step to remineralizing living things, whether they be microflora in soils, animals or human beings. Soil remineralization is a method of encouraging a natural, resilient and self regulating growing environment that promotes long term sustainable fertility. Remineralization is a foundational practice to help grow nutrient dense food using the broad elemental spectrum that rock dusts contains. Naturally distributing dozens of macro and micro nutrients delivered in mineral form, the use of basalt helps build soil biology and regulate the uptake of essential nutrients in plants.
Basalt is an example of a type of geologic material that naturally contains rich sediments that can be suitable sources for rock dust remineralization. Geologic materials have a long history as sources of fertilizer for growing crops. The best rock dusts provide a diversity of nutritive materials derived from natural minerals, freshly crushed and blended, in a gradation of fine particle sizes distributed widely in a growing media.
Alfalfa meal will breakdown in garden soil more rapidly than pellets or cubes. However, it is very light and dusty. The dust is non-toxic but any dusty material can create respiratory problems if inhaled. Use a mask to cover your nose and mouth when you apply meal, even on a calm day. Stay upwind of prevailing breezes and broadcast it as low as possible to the soil. Alfalfa may also be used effectively in teas.
Alfalfa meal provides a nice balance of the major nutrients, namely nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, but also magnesium and sulfur. This balance makes it one of the safest fertilizers to use. Alfalfa is often synonymous with the growth hormone triacontanol. Triacontanol is considered the most powerful plant growth promoter, and alfalfa contains copious amounts.
Along with nutrients and plant growth hormones, alfalfa naturally contains high concentrations of vitamins A, B and E, as well as riboflavin, biotin, folic acid and 16 amino acids. As a soil amendment, alfalfa meal works with and improves the balance of sugars, starches and proteins in soil, improving nutrient transfer and energizing the activity of beneficial soil bacteria. This not only improves growing conditions but leads to more flavorful and aromatic crops.
Alfalfa meal serves as an all-natural fertilizer that quickly and effectively replenishes worn-out soil. This enhances the growing potential of depleted soil, especially soil that has been used for long-term seasonal growing. Like many components of Living Soils, alfalfa meal offers distinct benefits depending upon where and how it is used.
Alfalfa, especially used as a tea will result in superior plant growth and greater bloom production. Plants that are fed alfalfa tea often have a greatly expanded root system over untreated specimens. They may break dormancy earlier and may have a noticeable increase in the thickness and number of leaves.
Alfalfa (Medicago sativa) is a perennial herbaceous legume that grows to about 3-feet in height. It has blue-violet flowers that bloom from July to September. There are species found in the wild all over central Asia and into Siberia. As with other legumes, alfalfa has the ability to ‘fix’ nitrogen in the soil. Because it is known to improve soil structure (tilth) and control weeds in subsequent crops, alfalfa is an integral component of many crop rotation plans.
1 cup ≈ 5 oz.
Vegetable Gardens & Flower Beds: To prepare new gardens, apply 5 lbs. per 100 square feet and thoroughly mix into the top 3″ of soil. For new transplants, add 1-2 tbsp. per hole, mix into soil and water in well. To feed established plants, side dress 2-4 oz., depending on plant size and desired growth rate, once each month during the growing season.
Row Crops/Acreage: Apply 500-1,000 lbs. per acre depending on specific crop needs or required pounds of actual nutrients per acre.
Containers: For new plantings, add 1-2 tbsp. per gallon of soil and mix thoroughly OR add 5 lbs. per cubic yard. For established plants, lightly mix 1-2 tbsp. per gallon into the soil surface once each month during the growing season.
Trees & Shrubs: Spread 1-2 lbs. per 1″ of trunk diameter around the base outwards to the drip line, mix into soil surface and water in well. For new trees, prepare transplant hole and mix 1-2 cups with the back fill soil. Use amended soil to fill in around the new tree and water in well.
Mix crab meal with your potting mixes or in your garden soil prior to planting. Adding crab meal to existing soil increases nutrient uptake and root development, increased resistance to stress and maximum crop yield across various growing locations and soil types.
Crustacean meal is an excellent source of slow-release calcium, nitrogen, and other essentials minerals especially when applied to beds several weeks before planting. Scientifically proven to stimulate the soil microbiome, particularly microbes associated with the biological control of plant pathogens and parasitic nematodes, crustacean meal improves soil health for greater root and plant vitality.
Crab meal is the crushed shells of crab, shrimp and lobster. Crab meal is a natural source of many of the major nutrients that fertilizers depend on for proper growth. It includes an unusually high concentration of nitrogen, phosphorous, and magnesium. Going a step beyond the norm for most synthetic soil amendments, it also includes lots of calcium.
1 cup ≈ 4 oz.
Vegetable Gardens & Flower Beds: To prepare new gardens, apply 2.5-5 lbs. per 100 square feet and thoroughly mix into the top 3" of soil. For new transplants, add 1-2 tablespoons per hole, mix into soil and water in well. For established plants, side dress ½ - 1 cup, depending on size of plant, once each month during the growing season.
Containers: For new plantings, add ⅛ - ¼ cup per gallon of soil and mix thoroughly OR add 5-10 lbs. per cubic yard. For established plants, lightly mix 2-4 tablespoons per gallon into the soil surface once each month during the growing season.
Trees& Shrubs: Spread 1-2 lbs. per 1" of trunk diameter around the base outwards to the drip line, mix into soil surface and water in well. For new trees, prepare transplant hole and mix 1-2 cups with the back fill soil. Use amended soil to fill in around new tree and water in well.
Liquid Preparations: Add 2-4 tbsp. per gallon of water and let steep up to 48 hours agitating periodically. Apply the solution directly to the soil around plants or filter and apply as a foliar spray. Be sure to use all the solution once it is prepared.
Ideal for garden soils and potting mixes, organic karanja meal is what remains after the seed kernels have been processed for oil. Rich in minerals and organic nitrogen(4.5%), it is an effective plant based “green manure” or fertilizer. Its also has effective in reducing pests and diseases.
Karanja trees are a useful agricultural crop similar to neem trees. The Karanja tree is a leguminous tree that produces beans high in protein and vegetable oil. Through mechanical extraction, they cold press the oil, leaving a rich karanja meal fertilizer. They have been used as a natural way to improve soil for hundreds of years.
1 cup ≈ 4 oz.
Vegetable Gardens & Flower Beds: To prepare new gardens, apply 1-2 lbs. per 100 square feet and thoroughly mix into the top 3" of soil. For new transplants, add 1-2 tsp per hole, mix into soil and water in well. To feed established plants, side dress 1-2 tsp per plant once each month during the growing season.
Containers: For new plantings, add 1-2 tbsp. per gallon of soil and mix thoroughly OR add 2.5 lbs. per cubic yard. For established plants, lightly mix 1-2 tsp per gallon into the soil surface once each month during the growing season.
Trees: Use 1 lb. per 1 inch of trunk diameter.
Kelp is used in solutions for germinating seeds, root dip for cuttings, potting soil mixes, when planting new trees and in various teas through out the growing season.
Although kelp is most commonly associated with potassium, it contains more than 70 other trace minerals, vitamins, amino acids, and plant hormones.
Because kelp comes from the sea – a natural mineral soup of common and rare nutrients – it is one of the only soil additives that includes mannitol. Mannitol is a natural sugar that helps break down micronutrients so plant cells can process and use them more easily. This same sugar is a food source for soil bacteria and fungi helping them proliferate and aid in nutrient cycling.
Benefits for Indoor Plants
Benefits for Outdoor Gardens
North Atlantic Sea Kelp (Ascophyllum nodosum) is gathered from the North Atlantic Ocean near Nova Scotia, Canada. Dried kelp has long been popular for crops that demand high levels of potassium to flourish. Kelp meal is nothing more than kelp that has been chopped into small flakes.
Neem protects from the multitude of pests with a multitude of natural ingredients. Compounds belonging to a general class of natural products called "triterpenes"; more specifically, "limonoids." So far, at least nine neem limonoids have demonstrated an ability to block insect growth, affecting a range of species that includes some of the most deadly pests of agriculture and human health. New limonoids are still being discovered in neem, but Azadirachtin, Salannin, Meliantriol and Nimbin are the best known and, for now at least, seem to be the most significant.
In many ways, neem meal is an almost perfect form of fertilizer. They have high enough levels of NPK nutrients to make them a huge help in organic gardens. Also, they contain enough azadirachtin to keep soil pests away. When used with other fertilizers, neem meal can enhance their efficiency and slowly release their own nutrients. This means that your plants benefit from constant access to the nutrients and experience little risk of getting burned by too much nitrogen exposure. Studies show that garden yields can be 15-25% higher when neem meal is used.
Neem is ideal for potting mixes and garden soils, neem meal (Azadirachta indica) is OMRI Listed for use in organic production. Neem meal what remains after the seeds have been processed for oil. A slow-release nitrogen source (5%), it can be used to build good soil structure and grow stronger, more resilient plants.
Neem trees have long been celebrated as a natural soil enhancer and is planted throughout southeast Asia and tropical regions around the world. Much of the neem tree, from the leaves to the bark and seeds, can be used as both an organic fertilizer and pesticide to increase gardening yields. Neem meal is what's leftover after they crush the seeds to get neem oil.
How to find soil volume for square or rectangular beds
For an existing 4' x 4' bed approximately 30 lb. bag, for a 4' x 8' bed approximately two 30 lb. bags, gently work into the top 4 or 5 inches of soil careful not to disturb roots.
Eisenia fetida, (Also known as the red worm, red wiggler, manure worm, tiger worm, brandling worm) is the most common variety sold and used for home vermicomposting. These are a species of earthworm adapted to decaying organic material, they thrive in rotting vegetation, compost, and manure. Red wigglers are reddish-brown in color, have small rings around their body and have a yellowish tail.
Eisenia hortensis (“European Nightcrawler”) variety can be used for worm composting as well, but due to its larger size it is often raised for use as a bait (or feeder) worm. The European nightcrawler is a medium-small earthworm averaging about 1.5 g when fully grown. Generally blueish, pink-grey in color with a banded or striped appearance, the tips of their tails are often cream or pale yellow. The species is usually found in deep woodland litter and garden soils that are rich in organic matter in European countries. E. hortensis is sold primarily as a baitworm, but its popularity as a composting worm is increasing.
Perionyx excavatus is a commercially produced earthworm. Popular names for this species include, blues or Indian blues. This species is marketed for its ability to create fine worm castings quickly. It has recently become more popular in America for composting purposes. This species belongs to the genus Perionyx and may have its origins in the Himalayan mountains. This species is suited for vermicomposting in tropical and subtropical regions.
AgSil 16H is a soluble form of potassium silicate providing the plant a 100% available source of silicon and potassium that are essential for optimum plant growth and health. Potassium Silicate strengthens the plant’s internal processes and external defenses. AgSil applied in the soil or foliar aids the plant during periods of drought, extreme temperatures, cold, frost, heat stress, salinity, mineral toxicity and other abiotic stresses. AgSil 16H activates the plants immune system helping it to resist against foliar and soil diseases caused by fungi, bacteria, nematodes, viruses and other biotic stresses.
Use 1.5g (Just under 1/2 teaspoon) per gallon of water for foliar spray or soil drench.
How to use this powder dry with your neem oil: Mix 1.5 grams (just under 1/2 teaspoon) Agsil 16H with 1/2 oz. pure neem oil to emulsify the oil. Then mix this emulsified oil with one gallon final volume spray solution. Spray every other week covering all plant surfaces (top and bottom of leaves) until it runs off.
If you don't have a scale: Use 3 Tablespoons of Agsil16H for every 8 ounces water.
You can use any basic potting mix when mixing the ingredients of the living soil kit together. We provide a Rain Science grow bag because of it's ease of use and aeration. Be aware that your soil may dry out faster and you might wish to adjust your watering schedule or growing medium depending on the moisture requirements of specific plants.
Yes, Rain Science Grow bags can be reused over again. You can wash them with dish soap and warm water. If you need to sterilize your bags they can be soaked in a solution of H2o2 and water. They are also washing machine safe, so feel free to throw them in with the laundry.
Air pruning is a natural process that happens as plant roots come in contact with fresh air near the walls of the growbag, the root tip stops growing, essentially pruning itself, this causes the rest of the root to branch off with many tiny feeder roots, instead of a few circling roots. These new roots will continue to colonize bag, allowing the plant to maximize uptake of both water and nutrients.
Yes, Rain Science Grow bags meet the requirements of the CA Department of Public Health “Standard Method for the Testing and Evaluation of Volatile Organic Chemical Emissions. We leach nothing to the soil and exchange nothing with the environment. If the rest of your grow is organic you can feel confident using Rain Science.
Rain Science grow bags aerate your root zone unlike plastic containers. Root aeration stops root circling, by air pruning, your helping your plant build a stronger root structure. Better roots means higher resistance to pests and disease, and a faster growing healthier plant. Old school plant pots also hold a lot of heat, which can lead to a whole new set of problems. Rain Science bags actually dissipate heat keeping your roots at an optimal temperature.
When your roots grow, they will quickly reach the container walls. With old school plastic containers, these roots immediately start circling and continue to circle. If you look at the root structure from a plant in a plastic pot you find a few large roots growing in circles with very little side branching, the roots will soon bind upon themselves, restricting nutrient uptake and eventually lead to root bound plants and death.
The problem with fabric grow pots are mold build up and root rot from the fabric staying wet. Mold, mildew and algae can rob your plants of valuable nutrients and oxygen. The wet material does not allow air to pass very freely. Their special mesh allows for better drainage than traditional grow bags. Rain Science grow bags provide more stable root zone temperatures, greatly improving drainage through the entire growbag and adding extra oxygen to the soil because of improved air flow through the fabric. This air flow facilitates a process called air root pruning, where the plant creates a bunch of tiny feeder roots which are better at absorbing nutrients, this in turn leads to increased plant growth.
PreBiotech is a preferred food source for beneficial microbes on plant surfaces including those associated with plant growth promotion and biological suppression of plant disease. A unique blend of crustacean shell that has been micronized to allow for a rapid reaction time with microbes, PreBiotech creates new application opportunities for crops including vegetables, fruit trees, ornamentals, row crops and hemp.
Yes, we offer shipping for those who need it. Simply fill out the order form and specify that you would like it shipped and we will determine the cost and contact you with a total price for your order. If everything looks good, we will take your payment and ship it directly to your door!
We take Cash, Check, Credit Cards, and Cashapp. After filling out an order form, we will contact you to determine your preferred payment method. If we are delivering product to you, we will take your payment upon delivery. Definitely feel free to contact us if you have any questions; you can use the chat on our website or fill out our contact form.
Integrated pest management(IPM) is an ecosystem-based strategy that focuses on long-term prevention of pests or their damage through a combination of techniques such as biological control, habitat manipulation, modification of cultural practices, and use of resistant varieties.
The Clackamas Coot Mix
Here is the recipe for my personal potting soil mix and this will make 1 cubic foot (which is just a little over 7 gallons).
"This mix is perfect for starting seeds or for planting seedlings or transplants that you buy at shows." - Clackamas Coot
Depending on what the earthworm is fed will determine the quality of the castings. For example, if worms are fed only one ingredient, say lettuce, they can only process the nutrients and minerals that are found in lettuce. This is as opposed to worms that are fed a complete, well-balanced diet.
Bottom line: what goes in, is what comes out.
Compost worms spend the majority of their lives above the soil in organic matter that falls on top of the soil. This leaves them very vulnerable to weather and predators. This means you'll have to meet certain environmental conditions for these worms to survive.
To use worm castings as a soil amendment, blend the castings with potting soil. Typically, castings make up 20-25% of the total soil volume for container plants. You can also add it to garden soil when planting annuals, perennials, vegetables, trees, and shrubs. Use it as a fertilizer by lightly topdressing houseplants or spreading ½ inch around the base of flowers and vegetables. Avoid letting the worm castings come into direct contact with stems or trunks.
Except for water and sunlight, nothing could be more natural for your garden than worm castings. Worm castings provides many beneficial microorganisms and nutrients to the soil, including beneficial bacteria, fungi, and protozoa as well as nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, and magnesium.
Composting with worms (also called vermicomposting) is usually done with 3 types of worms; Eisenia fetida (red wiggler), Eisenia hortensis (European nightcrawler), Perionyx excavatus (blues). Their specialized digestive systems convert food waste and other organic materials to a nutrient-rich compost called vermicast or worm castings. Worms thrive in an aerobic (with air) environments. They are able to process large amounts of food waste and rapidly reproduce in a confined space.
We sell 2 of the composting worms together, E. hortensis and Perionyx excavatus as they are able to occupy the same worm bed. In fact, they can make almost ideal companions since the former tends to live very close to the surface while the latter tends to prefer the increased moisture levels in the lower regions. This combination produces worm castings year round in our Florida climate.